“I realised that businessmen don’t exist anymore, even though the world has chosen business. It led me to think about working men in the 80s, and how they fetishised their clothing. I wanted to bring that same respect for fabric and shape to this collection.”
– Jonny Johansson, Creative Director
An investigation into fabric and shape, with a deep respect for materials, focusing on the clothes of 1980s classic businessmen combined with the 1940s “New Look” of couture.
A mood of lightness and calm. Fabrics are amplified and even swollen to create a richness of form and structure, in sorbet colours like dessert in a fine restaurant.
1980s double-breasted suits, in wool pinstripe or Prince of Wales check, are bonded with scuba to create shape, then fitted at the waist as if a couture construction.
Matching trousers have long pleats at the waist that eventually fan out for a graphic effect, with a seam running down the back of the leg to maintain the correct form.
Shirts may have a classic businessman’s white collar, but the body is in fluid cupro, and in shades of red or blue.
Cashmere blend sweaters are cropped and ribbed, with high v-necks and pleats in the back to emphasise the shape. Longer sweaters have extra volume cut into the back.
Ribbed ski sweaters that zip at the neck have been flocked to create texture, while certain mélange suits have been sprayed to mattify their appearance.
Motifs from the products in a gentleman’s store – hound dogs, golfing diamonds – are embroidered as repeat patterns on grey ribbed ski sweaters that zip at the neck.
Sneakers have platform soles and amplified features to echo the volume of the tailoring. Bags use covers from classic issues of Acne Paper in an act of image recycling.