In 1989, Markus Lupfer visited Berlin just as the Wall came down. The autumn/winter 2017 menswear collection pays homage to that extraordinary melding of lifestyle and aesthetics, when East met West; when cultural opposites combine. In to the mix comes vestiges of youth culture, sportswear and heritage textiles- all spun into an elegant, modern melange.
Sophisticated fabric are at the heart of the aesthetic fusion. Mohair and Shetland wools produced in Scotland mingle with bonded weaves. Sporty elements make their presence felt in mesh linings and technical fabrics, elevated by practical hiking details, including rubberised press buttons, eyelets and zips to give pieces a durable edge. A contemporary palette of chocolate brown, camel, navy and black is offset by flashes of metallic silver and chunky monochrome checks in the form of down padded jackets. Contrast are key.
How to create a future-proof foundation for a sophisticated wardrobe? It’s a now about items that are resolutely functional but also flattering. Wonderfully crips, substantial pique shirting comes with detachable collars, allowing for a double take on an everyday classic. Graphic elements evolve from the lines on a pinstripe trouser to bold ‘zeitgeist’ slogans and road sign imagery on jersey sweatshirt. Bomber jackets featuring camouflage embroidery are offset by thick cable knit sweaters. Technical jackets with a strong athletic edge find their partner in tailored checked trousers. The contrast poses the question: why choose between urban and rugged when you can have both?